BITE-SIZE LONDON

by Sally Wells

Our City-savvy London girl, Sally Wells says... whether you’re just visiting, new in town or an old regular, don’t let London overwhelm you.

The sheer enormity of London can feel intimidating, but if you centre your activities on any one day around a small, manageable part of it, you can keep a sense of perspective and realise that it’s just a series of villages, all with their own focal points and local inhabitants.

For a cheering and car-free destination in the centre, I recommend the South Bank. There are so many moods along the way, from the Design Museum beyond Tower Bridge to the Festival Hall just behind Waterloo. Whatever the weather, in a sociable or a solitary mood, I find something along the South Bank of the river to satisfy me. If you look at an out-of-date guide book you won’t hear about it. Years ago it was a bleak and under-exploited part of town with few places of fun to attract the crowds; over the past decade I’ve watched it develop a really good scene, with a busy and non-threatening vibe. Even it if wasn’t well and truly on the map these days, I’d still be telling you about it. Keeping cool places secret unto oneself is kind of mean, don’t you think?

One day I might be foraging at low-tide and walking home in the rain with my pockets full of smooth, white rounds of chalk. On a sun-block and shades type day I might be meeting a friend on the terrace of the Founders Arms , a great spot for catching a few rays with a view of St Paul’s as a backdrop. Check out the Printmaker’s Gallery just behind it. The Oxo Tower galleries often have an exhibition opening to see, and when I want to escape the milling crowds I slip into Bernie Span gardens and do some rolling about on the lush, soft grass. It’s easy... sit down with the soles of your feet together and hold onto your ankles. Lean over to your right side until you roll right over, then harness some of the momentum and tilt to your left.... it’s fun and therapeutic and this is London so people nobody cares or stares!

Gabriel’s Wharf has some sweet and funky shops, an antidote to the usual retail chains without being precious and over-priced. There are places to eat al fresco and sculpted wooden toys to sit on for children aged 3- ish to 90. Between Gabriel’s Wharf and the Festival Hall there are a couple of urban beaches, and you never know what’s going to be happening there. Sand sculpting, dancing to DJs, kids paddling... Carry on to the National Theatre where the summer season of music, theatre and circus events entertains outside for free every summer, watch the skateboarders, browse the book stalls under Waterloo bridge, see a film at the BFI cinema... listen to a band in the Festival Hall’s foyer. Eat noodles, buy music, laze about with a drink and watch the meandering, international crowds.